1. Harder rubber, best grip on dry or wet road surfaces
2. Performs best at temperatures above 5c: loses traction and grip under -5c.
3. In very cold waether, loses elasticity, causing adangerous accumulation of snow in the treads.
4. On compacted snow and frozen road surfaces, longer braking distance than a winter tire.

Winter Tire

1. Softer rubber, so it’s more flexible in snow and grips more in cold temperatures; performs well up to -40c.
2. Tread is 10% thicker than on an all-season tire.
3. More agressive footprint (30% more grooves), which assures greater traction and quicker ejection of snow and slush.
4. Reduced braking distance by up tp 25% compared to an all-season tire.

1. Take a penny and pinch between your thumb and forefinger.
2. Put Queen Elizabeth II’s Crown into one of the grooves on the tread. Select a point on your tire where tread appears the lowest.
3. If you can see the top of Queen Elizabeth II’s Crown, the treads are worn and need replacing.

The key to correct tire pressure is to know the correct pressure for your vehicle. The best place to find this inflation pressure is on the vehicle placard.

The front tires of your car will wear much more quickly than the rears. Not only that, but the right front tire might tend to wear out more quickly than the left front because the nature of American traffic means that left-hand turns (which load the right-front tire) tend to be taken at higher speeds, and under higher loads, than right-hand turns (which load the left-front tire). And, right-side tires are more likely to be faced with road hazards and hitting curbs. The result of all this is tires wearing out at different rates.

#1: Check tire pressures and adjust at least once a month and before long trips.

According to studies conducted by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) on tire-related crashes, the leading cause of tire-failure is underinflation.

Underinflation can have many causes, including a gradual loss of pressure through membranes in the tire itself. It is typical for pressure to drop approximately 1 psi per month and 1 psi for each 5-degree (C) loss in ambient temperature.

Underinflation has immediate effects on vehicle handling (as well as fuel consumption), but its potential impact on overall safety and tire life are even greater.

It results in premature and uneven tread wear on the outer edges. It also increases stress on the carcass itself, through flexing and overheating, which can lead to structural failures such as tread separation.

That’s why it is imperative to check and adjust tire pressure at least once a month and before every long trip (400 km). Recommended pressures are printed on a label located on the driver’s door frame or in the glovebox.

#2: Inspect tires regularly for abnormal wear or damage

To ensure maximum tire life and safety, give your tires a visually inspection at least once a month and before long trips. This is easily done at the same time you check pressures.

Look for:

1. Excessive or uneven tread wear, which may indicate improper inflation or steering and suspension misalignment.
2. Cracks or bulges on the sidewalls or tread.
3. Chunking of the tread or any indication of tread separation from the carcass.
4. Signs of puncture, or nails, screws, glass, pieces of stone or any foreign object imbedded in the tire.

If you detect any of these conditions, you should immediately take the vehicle in for further diagnosis. In most cases, punctures can be repaired if their size is not excessive.

In general, externally applied ‘plugs’ are not recommended. Repairs should be made from the inside, and a complete inspection made while the tire is off the rim. Sealing compounds and other emergency aids should be treated only as a means of moving the vehicle to a safe location for repair.

If abnormal tire pressure loss occurs, check the valve stems for leakage, as well as the tire itself.

#3: Rotate tires every 10,000 km or as specified in the owner’s manual.

Tire rotation is essential to achieve even tread wear and maximum tread life, because tires wear differently at each wheel position on the vehicle. On front-wheel-drive cars, for example, most of the braking, steering and driving forces are carried by the front tires, which inevitably wear much faster.

A ‘Cross-Rotation Pattern’ – left-front to right-rear, right-front to left-rear, etc. – can best balance tread wear and maximize tire life. That sequence can be performed on any vehicle equipped with four non-unidirectional tires.

Unidirectional tires (designated by an arrow on the sidewall) must be rotated only front to rear and rear to front, on the same side of the vehicle, so their direction of revolution does not change.

All-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive vehicles are best suited to a lateral rotation – left to right and right to left – at the same end of the vehicle.

#4: Maintain the tires in proper balance.

Out-of-balance tires can not only cause uneven tread wear and an uncomfortable ride, but also excessive wear on the suspension and other components. An out-of-balance tire can be detected by a severe thumping usually most severe at highway speeds.

If such a condition occurs, have your tires dynamically balanced as soon as possible. An experienced technician can usually determine which tire is out-of-balance by driving the car.

Tire balancing involves placing weights in appropriate places on the bead or inner circumference of the wheel. Tires should always be balanced when first installed, and whenever they are remounted.

#5: Maintain the vehicle’s steering and suspension in proper alignment.

Misalignment of the steering and suspension – either front or rear – can not only adversely affect the steering feel and stability of a vehicle, but also cause rapid and uneven tire wear. If not corrected, this misalignment can ruin a tire in a short time and distance.

If you feel the steering ‘pulling’ in one direction or another when travelling straight ahead on a flat road, with no crosswind, or if you notice uneven wear on the tires, particularly front tires, you should have the alignment checked and adjusted as soon as possible.

Alignment should also be checked after a vehicle has been involved in a collision or if it is used continuously on rough roads, particularly those with large potholes.

>h2>#6: Never overload a tire.

Overloading is the second leading cause of tire failure, next to underinflation.

All tires are designed to operate within a maximum load range designated by a code on the tire sidewall. Exceeding this can result in both excessive wear and reduced tire-life due to structural damage, including the potential for sudden failure.

In most vehicles, the maximum passenger and cargo load for which the vehicle and tires are designed is printed on the same label that designates recommended tire pressures.

That load, particularly in the case of trucks and SUVs, may be substantially less than the vehicle is physically able to contain. It is critical that the maximum allowable load never be exceeded.

When determining the actual load in your vehicle, don’t overlook the tongue-weight of a trailer if you are trailer towing, as it also acts directly on the vehicle’s tires.

#7: Avoid overheating tires.

Heat, like load, is the enemy of tire life. The higher the heat it is subjected to, the shorter the tire’s life in terms of both tread wear and structural resistance.

High speeds, high loads, underinflation, coarse pavement or concrete, and aggressive driving, including high cornering loads and hard braking, all contribute to high tire temperatures.

Combined with high ambient temperatures and continuous use, they can create extreme circumstances and cause sudden tire failure.

To maximize tire life and safety, therefore, it is important to minimize the simultaneous occurrence of such conditions. Be particularly vigilant at high temperatures and adjust your driving style to consider its effect on tire life and performance.

#8: Replace tires when required.

Your vehicle’s tires should be replaced if:

1. Any portion of the tread is worn to the ‘wear indicator bars’ lateral bars moulded into the tire grooves at about 20% of their new tread depth or to a depth, as measured in a groove, of 1/16th inch or less.
2. Tread wear is severely uneven (in which case have the wheel alignment checked) or the centre is worn much more than the edges (be more vigilant about tire pressures).
3. The tire sidewalls are severely cracked or there are bulges anywhere on the tire.
4. There is any indication of tread separation from the tire carcass.
5. The tire has been punctured and cannot be satisfactorily repaired.

There are other reasons you may need new tires, as well. If you have been running on winter tires, then a change is in order in the spring. Using snow tires on dry roads accelerates their wear significantly and diminishes both traction and handling ability.

#9: Install tires in matched pairs or complete sets.

Installing different tires on the left and right sides can significantly upset the handling balance of a vehicle — not to mention its ABS operation. For that reason, it is imperative that tires be installed in front or rear pairs, or complete sets.

Those pairs should be the same construction, size, brand and type, with approximately the same tread wear. In most cases, if you have to buy one new tire, you should buy a pair.

It is essential that side-to-side pairs be the same and highly desirable that front and rear pairs also be matched, except in cases such as high-performance cars with larger tires in the rear.

If you replace only two, the new tires should generally go on the rear wheels, regardless of whether the vehicle is FWD, RWD, or AWD. It is important to maintain maximum traction at the rear wheels to ensure stability. Putting new tires on the front and nearly worn-out tires on the rear wheels of any vehicle is a recipe for instability. It is thus very important to avoid dramatic differences in tread wear, front-to-rear.

Under no circumstances should you have tires of different construction (radial and bias ply) or different classification (all-season and winter) on opposite ends or sides, as handling can be adversely affected.

#10: Select the right tires for your vehicle and driving environment.

Tire design over the past decade has progressed dramatically, and in several directions at once. Improvements in `all-season’ tires have substantially advanced the concept of one tire for all needs. On the other hand, more specialized tires are now available than ever for high performance, rain, snow, ice, off-road and touring. Some are even uni-directional, “run-flat” and even “green”.

Most drivers are happy just to know they have `all-season’ tires, and that is the way most new vehicles are equipped. These tires are a benign compromise, sacrificing exceptional capability in any one area of performance for acceptable capability in all. Within that overall premise, however, there are huge variations in actual performance. All-season tires are not all created equal.

Unfortunately, factors that improve one tire characteristic tend to diminish another that may be equally important. For example:

1. A hard tread compound may enhance tread life and fuel economy but detract from both wet and dry traction.
2. Short, stiff sidewall construction may enhance cornering power and directional stability but detract from ride quality.
3. A wide tread with minimal grooving may enhance dry grip but detract from traction in wet and snowy conditions.
4. An aggressive, open tread may enhance snow traction but aggravate tire noise and sacrifice tread life on pavement.

Passenger vehicle tires may be expected to function on dry, damp or frozen surfaces, over mud, snow, ice, sand, or gravel, in temperatures from above 60oC (140oF) to below -40oC (-40oF). You get some idea of the multiple tradeoffs designers have to make.

Just consider that exceptional virtues are probably achieved at the expense of others. Determine what your primary needs are and narrow your choices accordingly.

Then, if possible, drive a similar vehicle equipped with the tires you are considering. Following these recommendations will minimize the risk of choosing the wrong tires for your needs.

Dipstick

Wipe

Add Oil

1. Check the oil when the engine is warm. Oil expands when it’s hot and contracts when it’s cold. Different temperatures will give you different readings.
2. Park the car on a level surface.
3. Open the hood.
4. Find the dipstick, a long piece of metal sticking out of the engine with a loop at one end. Usually located near the spark plugs.
5. Wipe the oil off the dipstick with a paper towel or shop rag.
6. Replace the clean dipstick, making sure to push it all the way in. Then pull it back out and hold it horizontally in front of you.
7. Look at the pointy end of the dipstick. If the oil on the dipstick is below the line marked “full”. Add a small amount of oil (less than a quarter of a quart) with a funnel. Many dipsticks simply have 2 lines with a cross hatch design in between. The oil level should be halfway between these 2 lines.
8. Check the oil level with the dipstick after adding oil. Add more if necessary. It’s easier to add more oil, but fairly difficult to remove oil if you add too much.

Dipstick

Wipe

Verify Level

Add Fluid

1. Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in “P” (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners’ manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.
2. Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.
3. Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within “COLD” marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the “HOT” mark. If it’s just a little bit lower I wouldn’t worry about it. Otherwise I’d top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it’s too black and dirty with burnt smell – your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner’s manual, may be it’s time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it – check what’s your car owner’s manual says.
4. How to top up the transmission fluid: It’s very important to use only specified transmission fluid – check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes – let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.

1. The coolant level should be between “LOW” and “FULL” marks on the coolant overflow tank.
2. If it’s lower. Add some coolant top it off.
3. If there is NO coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up often. Have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.